One of my favourite autumnal wintry walks is The Sugar Loaf located just beyond Abergavenny, a 40 minute drive from the glampsite and The Hayloft. Named after the refined sugar loaves that it resembles, this southernmost peak of the Black Mountains stands alone, a perfect conical, volcano-shaped mass visible from miles around.
The walk itself is not difficult. Park in the Sugar Loaf car park (use postcode NP7 7LA) that overlooks Abergavenny and take the trail through the bracken-strewn landscape up the far left hand side of the hill. It’s no more than an hour to the summit at 1,995 feet high with a bit of puff and effort required only for the final ascent. From the top the view is stupendous. To the north the Black Mountains, to the East the Cotswolds, to the west the Brecon Beacons including Pen y Fan, the highest peak in the area, and to the South the Bristol Channel. On a clear day you can see as far north as Shropshire and as far south as Somerset.
I climbed it a couple of weeks back on the peachiest and gentlest of late autumnal days – the leaves were all shades of rich fall colours, the sky was azure blue and the warmth of the sun had us stripping down to a single layer in no time at all. We lingered at the top, soaking in the 360 degree views, gazing at the wild horses just below us roaming free and lucky enough to call this mountain home. For us country dwelling folk, precious days like these are to be cherished. On a whim we decided some sun salutations were needed to honour the place and the moment. The sheer joy and beauty of reappraising the view from the downward dog position were not to be underestimated!
Our favoured descent path leads down to the lower slopes of the Sugar Loaf which are covered in ancient woodlands and boast the largest example of old sessile oak woods in Europe. You’ll also find ash, rowan, beech, bilberry, hazel, wood sorrel and a stream runs through it. It’s another world: magical, mystical and definitely a case of two hikes for the price of one.
Allow about 2.5-3 hours for the circular walk and afterwards make for Abergavenny, a bustling market town with some great places to eat and shop. Top of my recommendations is The Chapel café which serves delicious, flavoursome dishes using seasonal ingredients. Meat dishes are included on the menu but I guarantee even the most hardened carnivore will swoon over the inventive vegetarian and vegan options. Their perl las and pumpkin scone is not to be missed, ditto the ‘golden milk’. Should the weather be kind, there’s a delightful sheltered courtyard where you can also sit. Other eateries worth a mention include The Angel Hotel (formal dining room and more relaxed bar area) and Chesters Wine Bar.
Shopping wise, be sure to pay a visit to The Angel Bakery, just across the road from the Hotel, to stock up on delicious sourdoughs, pastries, local cheeses and much more (including a pleasing selection of Opinel kitchen knives). Next door to the Hotel is the most famous hat shop in Wales, run by milliner Alison Tod, and beyond that The Art Shop, sister of the Chapel Café, where you’ll find beautiful ceramics alongside art supplies, housed in a gorgeous old 16th century building.
Whether you’re hunkering down in The Hayloft for a cosy winter break or taking advantage of warmer months staying at the glampsite, hiking the Sugar Loaf and exploring Abergavenny makes for a glorious day. And if you happen to be with us in mid September you might well catch the Abergavenny Food Festival. All food for thought.
